Kaua’i: Fish and Ice Cream

For starters, there were a lot of fat people on our flight to Kaua’i. I wrinkled my nose at them while my mother chuckled to herself every time a 胖子 (“fatso” in Chinese) got up to get himself another soda.

“Everyone’s fat for a reason, Betty,” mom said, and I nodded, glad that the two of us fit comfortably in our economy seats. We had brought fruit, beef jerky, and granola bars to munch on the plane and watched smugly in our relatively slender frames as the others stuffed their faces with day-old overpriced airline sandwiches. 
Then we arrived in Kaua’i and forgot about the fatties on the plane. I drove my mother to a farmer’s market where she made a beeline for papayas, buying six. She would devour two that night. 
“Papaya doesn’t make you fat,” she would say as I stared, “It’s good for digestion.” 
Holding my mother’s six papayas, I bought a coconut and ask the nice but extremely wrinkled man to hack it in half and scoop out the flesh. I ate half a coconut standing in the parking lot in front of Kmart, refusing to acknowledge that it was akin to eating half a stick of butter. 
“It’s good for my skin. And antibacterial,” I thought. 
Then we raided the Kmart. The wrinkled man still fresh in my mind, I bought a man’s visor emblazoned with “Kaua’i” just in case I lost my mind and forgot where I was, and a tube of Ocean Potion sunblock which smelled like an orange creamsicle.  
My mother said, “Let’s get eggs, milk and cereal for breakfast. We can each eat two or three eggs a day. And if we have leftovers, we can boil them and take them on the flight home.” 
I nodded in agreement, thinking that we’d be hiking and/or kayaking so much that a big carb and protein and…everything-else-packed breakfast made sense. 
Breakfast of tourist champions. 
But conclude what you will from the following conversation: 
Me: Mom, what activities do you want to do? We can kayak the Wailua River, hike down Waimea Canyon, or go swimming at the beach right behind our resort

Mom: No… I’d rather not. 
We ended up walking, very slowly, a lot. Which normally isn’t enough exercise for me to say, “I’m gonna eat whatever the hell I want,” but when you’re in Kaua’i with your mother who thinks that eating two whole (sometimes three) papayas a day is the very thing one should do when vacationing in tropical fruit heaven, you follow your mother’s lead. Except with ice cream. Despite my sweet tooth being sharper than hers and relishing the occasional heaping plate of red meat, I have a similar palate to my mother’s; we like vegetables and fish. Lots of fish. And we like a good deal. 
Turns out, mom and I flew with the fatties to the right island. Below are the greatest culinary hits from our trip and the dishes behind our combined eight pound (four each) weight gain. 
Kapaa, HI 96746

This place was just down the street from our hotel and the most expensive fish market we visited, but huge portions and excellent seared ahi poke. Below are the seared ahi poke salad and mahi mahi plate lunch (sans rice).
5-5075 Kuhio Hwy. Ste. A
Hanalei, HI 96714
We came here on a recommendation while visiting the north shore and the famed Hanalei Bay. It’s a popular spot with tourists and locals alike and considered a “romantic treat” for people celebrating anniversaries, honeymoons, and engagements. There was a line outside the restaurant before it opened at 6PM, which gave the hostess a power trip. I let her take the trip because she was a stunning middle aged woman with arms like Linda Hamilton. I’m pretty sure she taught yoga during the day and never eats what’s pictured below. That said, the restaurant’s ambience and quality of food doesn’t equal their prices (our most expensive meal in Kaua’i) and afterward we decided to stick with fish markets. I do recommend their Hanalei Taro Fritters (don’t order the rest of the appetizers), Vegan Chocolate Silk Pie, and Deep Fried Macadamia Coconut Crusted Ice Cream (photo later). 
5482 Koloa Rd.
Koloa, HI 96756 
One of my favorite stops, in Old Koloa Town. It was sweltering that day and fish markets don’t exactly have seating, but we found a shady tree nearby and chowed down on their Hawaiian Plate with Lau Lau (pork wrapped in Taro leaves, which was very reminiscent of a similar Chinese dish) and fish cooked two ways (ahi and mahi mahi). Both were great and my mother, not a big meat eater, enjoyed the Lau Lau, which was like baby back ribs except without the ribs and the barbecue sauce… yeah. 

FISH EXPRESS
3343 Kuhio Hwy. Ste. 10
Lihue, HI, 96766

This place is number one. We bought fresh miso marinated butterfish to cook back at the hotel on our first night, and then came back for the grill, which is only open from 10-2PM each day.
“People get mad when they miss the grill,” said the young man behind the counter when we first went, and I immediately made a note to come back. The fish below was hands down the best grilled fish we had in Kaua’i – left is blackened ahi with a fragrant butter sauce and macadamia crusted cream dill sauce mahi mahi. Not pictured is the crab and ahi poke, which my mother ate like salsa, though without chips. She called it “polka dot” and insisted I buy the “polka dot” at all the subsequent fish markets.

“Mom. It’s POKE. Poke-ay.”

“Ah yes, polka dot is the dog.”

“….” (she was thinking of dalmatians).

We brought these to picnic near the beach and it was one of my most memorable meals. My mother complained a bit about the wind, then ate the fish and stopped complaining about anything.

CHICKEN IN A BARREL BBQ
4-1586 Kuhio Hwy
KapaaHI 96746


Our last dinner in Kaua’i, which we paired with a little bottle of wine I’d gotten from the plane. We shared a sampler which offered enough meat for three people, though if I ever go back I’d get the ribs, which were everything good ribs should be. Funny story: I called in my order and when I arrived, the girl said, “You’re the phone order?” 

“Yeah,” I said. 

“Here you go,” she pushed the box towards me and I said, “Wait, this is John’s.” 

Lastly, it wouldn’t be a proper food post without the literal cream of the crop:
ICE CREAM (clockwise from top left):
POSTCARDS CAFE – deep fried macadamia ice cream in coconut shell
ONO ONO SHAVE ICE – not shaved ice, (if rainbow sugar water is your thing, then definitely get it here) but their rather unnaturally hued taro and coconut ice creams.
PAPALANI GELATO – Pineapple (my mother) and chocolate.
LAPPERT’S ICE CREAM AND COFFEE – Kona coffee, my mother’s Achille’s heel and robber of sleep. She ate it at 7PM one evening and was doomed to toss and turn for the rest of the night.

And I had to give this guy his own headshot, because I miss him: Lappert’s Coconut Macadamia Nut Fudge. I went back twice and considered a third but my pants were feeling suspiciously tight and I didn’t want my mother to laugh at me on the plane too.

The End. 

First Look: Kaua’i

It’s hard to take a bad photo of Kaua’i. Mother Nature’s done all the hard work so all you have to do is point and shoot. These were taken with the iPhone, which is not to say I didn’t do the touristy thing and lug around the Canon G12, but first, the easy-to-edit phone photos. 
It’s Thursday, our last full day in Kaua’i and my mother and I have breakfasted on eggs, fresh papaya, coconut and Kellog’s Smart Start, which we bought at the Kmart adjacent to the farmer’s market we visited upon arriving. It’s rained a little every day, but thankfully mostly during times we were in the car, driving from coast to coast. I hate driving, but Kauai makes it easy (and also a bit dangerous, because I’m easily distracted) with view like this: 
And this: 
My mother is a brave passenger, as I often swerve to the opposite side of the road trying to capture the views I’m seeing, but I pulled over for this one of Wimea Canyon. It’s almost comical to try and fit it on a single screen but you can click the photo to enter into fullscreen mode. 
While we’re at it, here’s another panorama of McBryde Gardens which was exciting for me (my mother said simply, “Where are all the orchids? I thought there’d be orchids”) because parts of “Jurassic Park,” one of my favorite movies of all time, were filmed here. In this garden there is a restroom which was donated by Michael Crichton. I did not photograph the restroom, but it looks a lot like this one in the movie.  
You know which scene I’m thinking about. 

A shot from the bus enroute to the garden. According to Bob the driver, this is where the sea turtles come to lay their eggs.

The real Fantasy Island. 
Bob the driver. His voice was flat like this __________. But he was very nice. 
Just one of many pretty faces in the garden and around the island. It’s not called “The Garden Island” for nothing.

No more driving today. My mom and I are going to take the day strolling around our hotel, the Kauai Island Resort at the Beachboy, an older establishment with condo-style amenities, right on a beach that can get rather violent in the evening. But for now the water is calm and the sun, not so harsh.

Have a great weekend. 

In Flight: Leslie

Edward Hopper Chair Car
Chair Car  Edward Hopper, 1965   Oil on Canvas

I flew to Charleston in the smallest plane I’d ever been on, an Embraer ERJ-140. A private jet for some people but for American Airlines, a vessel capable of packing in forty-four passengers, one peroxide blonde flight attendant of German descent and exactly one lavatory, the existence of which seemed so implausible that I did not visit it once during the three-hour flight from Dallas. My seat was 9B, an aisle seat and as I approached found 9A occupied by a pretty brunette. She was covered from the neck down by a red fleece blanket from the airline. She wore glasses and had her hair back in a low ponytail. Continue reading “In Flight: Leslie”

The Art of Drawing Blood

For months the American Red Cross had been calling my cell and home phones. I ignored them, silencing the phone each time I saw them on caller ID, assuming they wanted money. I made a mental note to make time to donate blood instead. At least I make my own blood.

Last Friday afternoon I answered the house phone absentmindedly.

“May I speak with Betty?” a woman asked.

“This is Betty.”

She sounded almost relieved, as though she’d been tasked with tracking me down, and quickly launched into a breathless sentence that began with thanking me for my past three donations and, well, they were now critically short on B positive blood – would I mind coming in as soon as possible to give them a pint?

She didn’t use that word “pint,” but that’s about how much they take.

I was caught off guard – no one had ever called to ask for blood – but as I’d been meaning to do it anyway I said sure and a few days later, found myself laying back in a donating chair at the Santa Ana, American Red Cross. My blood drained from me in a healthy flow as I chatted with the phlebotomist.

She had a Spanish accent – is that what it’s called, when from someone’s English you can tell their mother tongue is Spanish? – and her voice was high and girlish. When I presented her with my driver’s license, she read the DOB and squealed, “Happy belated birthday!” and it was a nice way to begin. She was short, about 5’2″ with mousy brown hair tied in a haphazard ponytail and the pear-shaped body that seems to afflict many middle-aged, lower-middle class women who work in healthcare, but she moved easily, lightly, between the low divides that separated the donation area from the canteen from the small offices in which you answered very personal questions about your sexual history. She left me in the room for several minutes while I clicked a rapid succession of “no’s” and returned just as Lady Gaga’s “Poker Face” came wafting through the clinic air. She sat down and began reviewing my responses, moving her shoulders up and down to the Gaga’s voice.

“You like this song,” I observed.

“I do,” she said smiling, “I just love dancing.”

She brought warmth to the cold, sterile clinic air. Though I consider myself a blood-donating veteran, she made me feel at ease much more quickly than other phlebotomists had in the past. She took my temperature, read my blood pressure, pricked my finger and nodded approvingly at my iron levels, all with a sure but soft hand. All the while, she asked what I did on my birthday.

I told her about dinner with my friends at Orange Hill, followed by a late showing of “The Great Gatsby”.

“Orange Hill!” she said, “I’ve always wanted to go there!”

“It’s nice,” I shrugged.

She had intended to take her mother there for Mother’s Day, but the older woman preferred brunch at Las Brisas and her daughter conceded.

“But I’ve always wanted to go to Orange Hill again,” she said wistfully, “I went there maybe twenty years ago, and it was so beautiful. The view…”

By now we’d walked to the donating chairs, all of which were empty except for one occupied by a middle-aged Asian man wearing headphones and staring almost comatose into a small TV screen attached to his chair. The chair she motioned for me to take had no digital amenities, but I had a feeling that our conversation wasn’t over. The donation area felt even colder, as these blood donation centers counterintuitively are (unless there’s been some study that blood flow quickens in cold weather?), and she asked if I’d like a blanket.

“Sure,” I said.

She came back with a bright red fleece blanket with a character from Disney’s “The Incredibles” stitched onto a corner. It was the boy Dash, who could move at lightning speed.

“There,” she said, draping the blanket over me with a maternal air, “Now you’re ready.”

She came around to my left, tied my arm with a blue rubber strap and began swabbing the skin with two cold iodine swabs. The color of the iodine – dark and foreboding like blood itself – has always mesmerized me and I imagined that for the faint of heart, watching the phlebotomists swab the puncture area with a blood-colored substance doesn’t exactly quell the growing squeamishness. I always force myself to watch the needle though, so I can temper the pain I think I’ll feel. Mentally it’s torture, but it’s never that bad aside from knowing that there’s a needle in your arm. It’s uncomfortable, but in a vague, can’t-put-your-finger-on-it-way. Less a rock in your shoe than that strange feeling of unease you get when you’re about to be very very sick. Though I will say, the needle does seem to grow slightly in diameter with each donation.

The needle was in. She gave me a soft stress ball in the shape of a pencil to hold and asked me to squeeze and release.

“That’s right,” she said, nodding encouragingly, “Squeeze and release, squeeze and release.” She patted my shoulder and then looked at me expectantly.

“So, how was the food?”

I looked at her for a minute.

“At Orange Hill! For your birthday! Was the food good?  What did you eat?”

This is what I ate. 

I was holding my breath and let it out with an unintended whoosh. Breathing now, I told her I ordered lamb, two friends had fish and the rest steaks.

“Ooh,” her eyes widened, “I love steak. What kind? New York Strip?”

Filet mignon, I said, and this weird thick cut I’d never seen before, called Chateaubriand, meant at Orange Hill to be served for two. I tried with one arm to explain how the Chateaubriand was served. The waiter had rolled it up in a cart – an unappetizingly large lump of meat sitting on a hot metal pan – poured alcohol on the pan, lit a blazing blue fire that seared the meat a final time before he sliced it in half and served it with a baked potato.  

She loved this and I think, had already made up her mind to order it on her next visit to Orange Hill.

“I like it when they cook for you at the table, like a show, you know?”

She searched for the restaurant that specialized in this and to which she liked to take her kids for their birthdays.

“Hana Bana? Banihanana…?”

“Benihana,” I said.

“Yes!” she clapped excitedly, smacking her lips, “Benihana! I love that place! The cooks are so talented,” she imitated them, tossing an imaginary shrimp head into the air, “and the fried rice and the miso soup. I looove the miso soup.”

“You like Japanese food?” I began to think of restaurants I could recommend her but stopped when she shook her head.

“No, I just like the miso soup. I don’t understand Japanese food, the sushi?” She made a small circle with her thumb and forefinger, to show me exactly what she thought of it, “It’s so small! It’s like nachos and salsa for me, you know? Like a snack, I can’t get full off of it.” 

I burst out laughing, but she wasn’t done. 

“I can eat a whole California roll but it’s never enough and even if I have two bowls of the miso soup…it’s just not a meal! It’s not a meal!” 

I nodded, wondering if she knew that Japanese food consisted of much more than just California rolls and miso soup, (if the former could even be classified as Japanese food), and was about to ask her where she ate Japanese food when she became excited about some memory. 

“Oh but you know what, I do like those rolls with the Philadelphia Cheese. That to me, is like the best.” 

I nodded, debating if I should tell her that the “sushi” she adored was a very American, very bastardized version of “Japanese” food. Our conversation reminded me of an experience I had while visiting the home of my college roommate, who was from a small, mostly white suburb of Connecticut. Her parents had kindly taken me to an Asian buffet, hoping I could tell them if it was “authentic” or not (it was, if only that it was owned by the suburb’s sole Chinese family). Standing in line for walnut shrimp, the kind that’s deep fried and tossed in mayonaise, I overheard an elderly woman recommending it to her friend. 

“That shrimp is divine,” the woman said, “The Chinese are so creative. They put some kind of special cheese on it!” 

I chuckled at the memory and became only vaguely aware that the needle in my arm was throbbing. This was the best way to donate blood, with a good lighthearted woman who knew her way into a hard to find veins not to mention keep the donor talking and thinking about other things. 

“Where are you from?” I asked, turning the conversation away from food. 

“Mazatlan,” she said. 

It sounded familiar, and I asked if it was near Playa del Carmen, a beautiful Mexican beach town I’d once “studied” abroad in during a summer at community college. 

She shook her head and immediately grabbed a paper towel and drew a poor but understandable map of her home country. 

Mazatlan is in Sinaloa,” she said, pointing to a point in the middle of Mexico’s west coast, “Playa del Carmen is in Quintana Roo, aaaalll the way on the other side, near the Gulf of Mexico, by Cancun. It’s so beautiful, right?” 

I nodded in agreement. I had heard similar things about Mazatlan and she confirmed this. 

“Oh yes, it’s beautiful too. Also a beach town, with tourists… my mother still lives there so I gonna take my kids there for two weeks this summer. They gonna speak their Spanish because they don’t speak it with me no more at home!” 

That is important, I said, and assured her that her kids would thank her some day, because my mother insisted on doing the same thing, taking us back to Taiwan each summer since we were toddlers. 

“They don’t really like Mexico,” she sighed, “They think it’s so hot, and you know, it’s not as clean as here,” she waved her arms as though gesturing to the spotless clinic. 

Behind her, a plasma agitator rumbled and whirred. The Asian man, still the only other donor, stared unblinking at the screen. An obese blonde administrator took a seat in her office and started clacking away on the computer. Our eyes met and we exchanged smiles. I noticed there was a miniature Oscar statuette on her desk, and various doodads I couldn’t make out from where I sat. She returned her eyes to the screen. I became aware of the other conversations going on around us – a hipster Asian guy not much older than I was talking about some concert he’d gone to and how he couldn’t wait for a show he was going to next week. Two other blood techs lounged in rolly chairs with their legs crossed and chatted in low voices, bored tones. 

“But you’re right,” she said, bending down to check on the bag, “They will appreciate it some day. And they gotta spend time with grandma, you know?” 

She has two kids – a ten year old boy and eight year old girl – with a Mexican man she met twenty years ago in the US when she came to learn English. He was from a small inland town I’ve now forgotten the name of and studied at the same school.  

“We got married back in Mazatlan,” she said.

“Your wedding must have been gorgeous.”

She nodded, smiling at the memory, “Oh it was, it was so beautiful. So so so beautiful.”

Back in Mexico she was certified as a phlebotomist and found work mostly in gynecological offices, not with a huge-nonprofit whose blood came mostly from volunteers. Her husband became a machinist, and after five years the couple decided it was time to move to the U.S. permanently, to get better jobs and raise their children. 

“It was so nice,” she said of life in Mazatlan, “The beaches, the community, but it was so humid. And here is so much better for the kids. But you know I never want them to forget where they’re from.” 

Her husband has plans to take the kids to his hometown next summer.

“I told him, ‘Yes, we gonna take them next year.’ But whoo!” she rolled her eyes, “There’s no beach there so my kids probably gonna go crazy! They complain when they’re in Mazatlan: ‘Mama it’s so hot! Mama the mosquitoes!’ but I think some day they’re gonna miss this time.”

I remembered a single childhood midnight in Taipei, when my mom, brother and I were all so hot (my mother didn’t believe in sleeping with the airconditioning on) that sleep seemed impossible. She shook us out of a sweaty stupor and whispered, “Let’s go out for popsicles.”

We ate dripping red bean milk popsicles in the guest bathroom so as not to disturb the rest of the house, my mother sitting on the toilet with one foot resting on the edge of the bathtub. It is a single memory, but a perfect representation of “that time.”

Something beeped below my arm and she came to my side, bringing up a bulging bag filled with burgundy liquid. I was finished.

I realized I didn’t know her name, this woman who liked sushi rolls with Philadelphia cheese and who believed in refreshing, yearly, her children’s relationship with their heritage.

“Imelda,” she said, bringing up the bulging bag to inspect, “but I don’t have so many shoes like Imelda Marcos.

She squeezed the bag a few times as though examining a too-ripe mango and I thought, oddly, of water beds. I looked at the bag, feeling comfortably detached from it as Imelda deftly pulled the needle out, pressed a cotton pad to the puncture and wrapped a stretchy, sticky red bandage around my arm in a big X, instructing me to avoid heavy lifting and to eat plenty of iron rich foods. I thought ahead to a yet uneaten plate of lamb chops, courtesy of cousin Andrew and felt the cold clinic air hit my legs as she lifted the blanket off me with a flourish. 

“You’re all done,” she smiled, “You did a good job.”

I smiled back, thanking Imelda for a perfectly enjoyable donating experience.

“Oh not at all,” she said, then smacked her lips, “Thanks for sharing your meal with me. I’m still thinking about that Chateaubriand.”  

Laughing Hysterically at Dinner

My birthday dinner with friends was held at The Orange Hill Restaurant, located way up on a hill that over looks Orange County. Stepping inside, my cousin Michelle said, “The last time I came here was ten years ago, for prom.”

My brother and his wife were supposed to have their wedding reception there. My dad and I had rushed around last fall trying to secure the Evening Star Room and adjacent patio and when we’d done so, placed a non-refundable deposit for Sunday, July 7th, a grand time to have a wedding because the ceremony would be held outdoors against the setting sun and afterwards we’d all be ushered into the dining room with panoramic windows of the view. 

Then some things changed. My brother and his wife are now having their reception in Taiwan which left us with a massive question: how do you finagle back the non-refundable deposit? Well, you can’t. But you can host “up to four events,” the restaurant manager told us firmly.

“Have a good time,” my dad said, when I suggested I have a birthday dinner there, “tell your friends to order whatever they want.”

So we did, and I spent most of the night looking like this:

Thanks for this, Charlene. 

Amy was kind enough to put my hair up in a sock bun ten minutes before we left, but from some angles I like I looked a little too kung fu master. It didn’t matter; I always look better in person anyway. I had a good time scaring people at other tables, gentle families who wanted to take their mother somewhere nice with fish on the menu and dim lighting. Except the guy behind me couldn’t tell a story without peppering it with the F word. My poor friends, I hope they had a good time too, though most of the time they were probably thinking, “What is she laughing at?”

Amy: “Betty, you’re scaring me.” Notice the empty plates of dessert. 
Jaime: “I didn’t even say anything.” 

In calmer times, we managed to catch the sunset and pester a kind, patient waiter to take multiple versions of this photo for us.

Twenty-seven with some friends, some cousins, all family. 

Mostly I was laughing because that’s what I do when I’m happy.

On Selfies

Courage sent me this link yesterday, after telling me her father had spent the evening taking selfies following the purchase of a new iPhone.

“It was weird,” she said, “My dad was so into it. He like, moved the phone around for a long time trying to get the best angle.”

“An iPhone would have made this so much easier.” -Sofonisba Anguissola, 1556 

I laughed, imagining the awkward Asian man smile and the self-denial that comes with selfies at a certain age, or any age. I’m not one for selfies, mostly because the selfies never hold up to how good I (think) I look in real life, but when I do take them (in the privacy of my room in the not so dark depths of boredom), the resulting images are always sobering. Do I really have that many moles (or “fly shit,” as my aunt calls them) on my face? Yes. I plan to get them lasered off some dark winter when I will be antisocial. Am I imagining the right side of my jaw being more developed than the left? No. But asymmetrical faces are more interesting, right? Crow’s feet, at twenty-seven? Really?! Sadly – or happily, yes.

My kind of selfie. 

But maybe I’m missing the point of the selfie, which at the base of it, is self-love. How else do you explain those people on Facebook (cough *Taiwanese/Korean/Japanese FOB girls e.g. my sister-in-law) who unabashedly post selfie after selfie without the slightest whiff of embarrassment?

“This is me,” the selfies say, “Love it or hate it, this is me.”

“I see,” I think, “Thank you for sharing.”

The flip side is of course that the selfie represents the opposite of self-love.

“How sad that she or he (because men take selfies too, and it is like ten thousand times less okay than if a girl does it – just one of the unspoken laws of the universe) needs the affirmation.”

We put up our faces to be judged, hoping that our friends will take the bait, be kind, and compliment what we hope are our best angles (eyes up, face down, camera up and up), but the selfie is just that: bait for the compliments we’re fishing for. Compliments equal affirmation equals reasons to go on living for a few more days. Okay, that’s a little severe, but you get the gist.

And then there’s kind of a middle ground, a boring place to be, but a place nonetheless because it exists. I find myself standing there sometimes when I’m dressed well and my makeup is done and my skin looks brighter than usual. It happens before I’m about to leave for a party or some other event where other people will see me and (hopefully) compliment me.

“Like” away! Perfectly distanced selfie. If you’re wondering, yes, my room IS that pink. 

It takes a tremendous amount of nonchalance to post a selfie. I care what people think, but it’s a weird magic that happens once the photo is posted: you think “Damnit’sagoodphotowhocaresI’mgonnapostit,” all in one breath because it’s akin to taking a cold plunge into cyberspace, where you don’t know if the selfie, essentially your self, will be sneered or cheered. I don’t recommend getting used to it. I haven’t.

But when all’s been shot and done, I realize that I keep a personal blog. Which, if you think about it, is one giant, long-running, verbal selfie.